Local is the New Black

Every once in a while a great bottle comes around, and that wine changes your life.

But wine lovers are never monogamous.

For many who appreciate a great wine, it may be possible to go through commitment phases, or ‘love affairs’ with a certain varietal, but most wine lovers can’t stay with just one for long.

One might think that they belong with a Pinot Noir, but than along comes a slightly chilled Beaujolais one day and it’s true love at first sip.

An affair can start in all sorts of ways – a self-professed California Cab-only drinker may take a trip to Italy and get hit on by all kinds of similarly big reds – Chianti Classicos and Brunello, and resist. But later, this person, will be handed a bottle of the beguiling Ripasso di Valpolicella. And while they may have entertained the potential of other wines, that Ripasso’s got a leg up. And as the second bottle of Ripasso is passed around the table, out comes the cork.

While some say they only drink one varietal, when a compatible new wine comes around, wine lovers can’t keep their corkscrew in their pants.

However, in burgeoning wine regions, such as the one we have here in Ontario, extravarietal affairs take on a different shape – while some wine lovers are lured away by a different wine, others are by a new region. In fact, the Niagara Wine Region is like the ‘Most Eligible Bachelorette’ of the world’s wine regions – in relation to older, more familiar regions it’s fresh to the scene and thus more “It” worthy, it’s had won numerous international wine awards, and with the rising notoriety of it’s sister city Toronto in pop culture, Niagara wines have never been more dateable.

Think about it this way – your love for wine is a dating show and there are three contestant bottles vying for your attention. Gewurztraminer, one of the most successful and exciting new wines out of Niagara, is going up against two famous others – a Gewurztraminer from Alsace,France and one from the Alto Adige region of Italy.

Dating Show Host: Let’s meet our contestants. Bachelorette Number One from Alsace. She is a celebrated woman of contrast – with a dry taste, but a rich aroma of rose, lychee and peach stone, this classic beauty has been well loved and rightfully so. But since Alsace is known to produce some of the finest expressions of Gewurztraminer, you HAVE dated her before…and so have all your friends.

Alsace Gewurztraminer: Yes I’ve been around the block, but only because I’ve been around for years. I’ve got a big rep for being the most delicious…

Alsace Gewurztraminer reapplies her slightly smeared red lipstick and drops her ‘little black book,’ the size of a Bible, on the table.

Dating Show Host: Bachelorette Number Two from the Alto Adige region of Northern Italy. This Gewurztraminer is a whole lotta wine; with aromatic richness and strength, this full-bodied wine tastes of fine spices and cloves with a gorgeous nose reminiscent of a full bouquet of roses. This powerful wine may overpower your dish as she commands the attention of your senses, but who needs to eat when you have a wine like her?

Bachelorette Number Two: I am a big, delicious Italian wine. Need I say more? No. I can be your lover, you’re only friend and your mother. Date me.

Bachelorette Number Two blows you a big kiss, then pulls ten bulging bags of luggage out, presumably containing everything she owns, and taps her watch.

Dating Show Host: And finally here is Bachelorette Number Three from the burgeoning Niagara Wine Region. She is a fresh face to the scene but will wow your palette with her remarkable taste and flair. Niagara, a famous producer of sweet wines such as Riesling, Vidal and Icewines, is a natural for Gewurztraminer. Allow your socks to be knocked off by this youthful and talented lady.

Bachelorette Number Three: Gewurztraminer is new to my region and for those who can’t pronounce it, I say to call me G-Wine. Until everyone recognizes me, I’ve been used as the special ingredient in bottled wine blends, and my honey coloured self is like the golden touch – add Niagara G-Wine to a VQA blend and it sells like hot cakes! My region might be young, but it is an ideal place to grow my vines and cultivate my perfect grapes. People try me and they’re like “OMG-Wine!” So what will it be – what region for G-Wine hits your G-Spot?

Bachelorette Number Three does three backflips, spins around a pole and twirls towards you , fireworks erupting around her…

Regardless if you are attached or not, when a great wine comes around, no ball-and-chain favourite bottle is worth saying no for. So sow your wild grapes, because love for wine is best for the open-minded, the swingers, the cheaters, and the just plain open-hearted.

In this case (or case of an amazing new wine), it will always mean something – something delicious!

Everyone knows a good apple after the first bite.

But who knows good from bad after a bite of a tomatillo, ramp, purple carrot or claytonia?  Lesser-known crops are harder for the average consumer to critique.

To crunch down on any of these goods, you’ll have to order up at a notable Toronto restaurant. For these are not often found at the farmers market, but instead are featured as star ingredients in unique menu dishes.

So to determine the yum-factor of such atypical produce, it’s usually the chef’s call.

And that’s especially true now. Fall is up and for restaurants that means new menu time. That also means chefs have a new slew of fresh produce to try out and get inspired by. Like any industry there is always much to do to get ahead, or in this case, a good head of Winter Density lettuce.

Before harvest, common and not-so-common fruit, vegetables and herbs grow from GTA earth with promise, and smart Toronto chefs become like savvy investors and flock early to the city’s best farmer’s markets to stock their kitchens with the best fresh, yummy capital for new menus.

But there’s another way for chefs get their hands in the honey pot that is tasty produce – after the best of the locally-grown become ripe, these crème de la crème of crop yields can be shuffled through the alleys of Toronto’s restaurant districts. Samples of the finest produce, toted by farmers like gold coins in a dollar sign bag, are offered to chefs through the back kitchen door.

“Through the backdoor, we can get a lot of forgers,” said Anthony Rose, Head Chef at The Drake Hotel. “Like one of the guys we use mushrooms from, he was looking for business and really wanted to be at The Drake Hotel.”

Unbeknownst to most farmers market goers, there exists a black market of farm to table cuisine, and it requires street-sense from farmers to get their goods into the right hands.

The owner of one such pair is Chef Anthony Rose, mastermind of food offerings at The Drake Hotel, and notably nicer member of Toronto’s top chef mafia.

Famous chefs are an elite bunch who sometimes get a rep for laying down a hard law in the kitchen. And if you’ve ever been in a top restaurant’s kitchen, then you know – they may not be mobsters, but those ladle-wielding bosses are taking no prisoners during dinner rush.

To get their produce into the hands of a great chef, farmers need to think outside the market and think menu.

And get a little ‘hood.

Fictional mobster Tony Montana said, “first you get the money and then you get the power.” Obviously, a “little friend” to a farmer is more a weeder than a machine gun, but the desire to reap what you sow is a universal goal – true from the mean streets of New York to Toronto’s earnest back kitchen alleys.

The lucky thing for interested farmers, is that big timer chefs are actually more gentle giant then mob monster. Their love for food is what’s behemoth – it’s big taste, big expectations and big glasses of wine with meals. At the end of the day, it’s not a big power trip. It’s about delivering that real satisfaction to their guests.

It’s important for farmers to network as well to impress a chef, because even with the edibles crowd, it can still be about ‘who you know’. Attending food and wine events, coming in to eat  and schmoozing a bit at the restaurants of interest are all important measures to take. Cringe yes, but selling to a well-known restaurant not only pays well, but later, at the farmer’s market, the stand with a name recognized from The Drake Hotel’s menu, is gunna have a line-up.

“We’re a really good place to have farmers want their produce at, we’re a fairly big restaurant, high volume, high profile…and we sell a lot of food,” said Rose. “We also use a lot of farmers, but my favourite is Mark Trealout, who runs a cooperative called Kawartha Ecological Growers, using about a dozen or more people in his area,” said Rose. “Its amazing dealing with him because he runs his own farm but he is also dealing with so many other people that have fantastic things. Also, I like Andy George and his wife in in the Stratford area who run Soiled Reputation farm, and then from Prince Edward County, I love Vikki and Tim from Vikki’s Vegetables.”

For locally-focused Chefs, the farm and producer become integral sources of menu inspiration and are often credited.  For instance, on The Drake’s menu, Rose highlights his favourite local ingredients by naming the farm it’s from – “Markus mushrooms,” “Kernal peanuts,” “Tymek’s sour pickles,” and “Ezell’s slaw;” listed by name under the dish they inspired, the produce is that appreciated.

“What I like to do is what I call ‘Canadiana’, which is about using what’s good and what’s growing around here,” said Rose. “ Like for the past couple years, I’ve been loving these red peanuts from just around Lake Erie area…But no one really knows you can get local peanuts in Ontario…and it’s become something really amazing to showcase.”

“We try to get all these amazing products and the people who make them into The Drake,” said Rose “so more consumers can find out about local produce and enjoy it.”

GTA earth is ready for culinary success and farmers are the grassroots operation behind the success of our city’s best local restaurants.  Acknowledging farms on menus, bringing farmers into the kitchen and using local produce as menu inspiration are all big steps towards empowering Toronto as a culinary destination.

Nothing is more powerful than feeding someone properly. And with the help of Ontario’s great farmers, chefs can sure do that here.

Being both a vegetarian and a foodie at a wine-pairing dinner party can feel like you’re sitting at the kiddy table.

Since traditionally wine is paired with meat, poultry or seafood, vegetarians in attendance are usually going to get the substitute dish- an easy-to-eat veggie dish; fit for a kid, but still are poured a shiraz meant for the steak tartar.

And not only are herbivores going to feel left out, these rare bon vivants are also going to have to spend group meals explaining their lifestyle choice  by the  first wine poured, and taking dead animal jokes by the fifth.

However, with a little know-how and the right menu, vegetarians can upgrade their dining experiences and graduate to meat-free wine-pairing meals gourmet enough to satisfy even the most carnivorous of taste buds.

To create a multi-course vegetarian dinner for meat-eaters, plant-eaters should be careful to keep the menu as traditional as possible – hors d’oeuvres with sparkling wine, followed by a soup or salad, a pasta course, a rich main, and finished with dessert and aperitif. It is also important to hit all the major vegetarian food groups to keep the meal both nutritious and satisfying. Preparing the meal in this way will prevent carnivores from writing off the meal as a vegetarian novelty, and will keep the spotlight on great taste.

The trick to partnering a vegetarian meal with wine is to combine flavourful ingredients with cooking methods that help to enrich the dish.  For instance, adding warm spices like cinnamon and ginger will give gusto to a sauce, while grilling or roasting vegetables will help to caramelize and heighten flavour.

Also, ingredients such as miso and soy can replicate the taste of meat, and bold cheeses, aged balsamic vinegar, chestnuts or walnuts act as substitutes for the meaty tastes. Essentially, the stronger the flavours, the more compatible a vegetarian meal becomes to wine.

As with any rule of thumb for wine pairing, there are certain staples of a vegetarian diet that match different wines best.  Reds of a Bordeaux-style such as Syrah, Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon blend are suitable to vegetable dishes, specifically those with enough richness to tame strong tannins – sautéed mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, garlic, grilled eggplant, barbecued tofu, smoked beans and chipotle peppers.

For a dry red or white wine with softer tannins such as a Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Sauvignon Blanc stick to dishes with mid-weight savoury flavours.

Ingredients like herbed cheeses, legumes, nuts, herbs, breads and raw vegetables will compliment and never overpower these lighter wines.

Full-bodied white wines such as Gewürztraminer, Riesling or Chardonnay taste wonderful with sweet and rich vegetables like sweet potato, butternut squash and roasted red peppers or creamy sauces with almonds or hazelnuts (which can help to pick up Chardonnay’s oak flavours).

To put newly acquired vegetarian wine-pairing knowledge into practice, treat meat-biased foodie friends to the following vegetarian VQA wine-pairing menu:

Course One

Chili and Miso Baked Tofu with Spinach in a Filo Pastry Puff

Château des Charmes Méthode Traditionnelle Brut Rosé 2005, LCBO $28.95

This sparkling rosé starts with sweet cherry notes that are in compatible contrast to the chili spice, yet has moderate acidity and a dry finish to compliment the dish’s savoury flavours.

Course Two

Porcini, Chickpea and Fennel Salad with Sage Oil

Flat Rock Cellars Gravity Pinot Noir 2007, LCBO Vintages $29.95

A Pinot Noir is a dry, medium full-bodied red and is fantastic option for a savoury vegetarian salad.  This wine in particular works beautifully as it posseses aromas which suggest hummus and smoked meat; complimenting the chickpeas and porcini mushrooms.

Course Three

Carmelized Onion and Squash Ravioli with Roasted Lentils in an Almond Butter Sauce

Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve 2007, LCBO Vintages $25.00

This full bodied chardonnay is in perfect harmony with the buttery root vegetable pasta thanks to aromas and flavours of warm peach, vanilla and hazelnut.  This wine is also balanced by a refreshing acidity to balance the dish’s salt flavours before leading to a lovely, long finish.

Course Four

Eggplant Gratin with Roasted Tomatoes, Barbecue Tempeh Polenta and Saffron Custard

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Cabernet/Merlot Blend, LCBO Vintages $19.95

This Cabernet/Merlot Blend is made in a Bordeaux style and is a marvelous partner for such a rich eggplant dish thanks to its strong structure, natural fruit and crisp acidity. As mentioned earlier, a Bordeaux-influenced red is an excellent choice for vegetarian meals as it remains full-bodied without overpowering a meat-free dish.

Course Five

Ginger Brandy Cheesecake with Mandarin Orange Glaze

Malivoire Gewürztraminer Ice Wine 2008, LCBO Vintages $39.95

This ice wine is unique in that it is made from Gewürztraminer grapes, rather than from typical Rieslings or Vidals. Gewürztraminer is a special choice for this asian-inspired dessert as it has a pleasing aroma of honeyed lychees and mandarians, with the slightest hint of spice pronounced by a tingle on the nose – perfect for the ginger flavour. Ice wines are considered the brandy or cognac of wines, and this Malivoire, especially when chilled, is a sweet aperatif to close out a delicious meal.

Vegetarian wine-pairing might still be a budding trend, but watch closely because this culinary art is growing up fast.

Reposado is known in its hood as one of the original lead birds of Ossington’s flock of bars and restaurants. But for local tequila drinkers in Toronto, its opening was much more like a long-awaited beacon in the night, and like moths to a flame they flew in.

Before Reposado opened in 2007, tequila tipplers in Toronto were often riddled with social scrutiny of their habit and forced to lead a double life. These die-hards kept their identities quiet ‘cause tequila’s got a bad rep.

It’s as if tequila drinkers were the superheroes of Toronto’s liquor-appreciating lot – the Batmen of judgmental Gotham.

This shouldn’t be a shock – how many tequila connoisseurs had you met before agave liquor flowed freely at Reposado? Slamming down prairie fires isn’t in the same vein, and neither is getting sloshed from blender margaritas.

According to the resident tequila experts at Reposado – Catherine MacFadyen, co-owner and Andrea Barber, bar manager – a true tequila connoisseur is a rather civilized drinker with particular and excellent taste. A good time bon vivant if you will.

Yet, for years, they have almost always been allusive. Like Reposado’s logo – the bat – tequila drinkers have long been creatures of the night – forced to appease their normal drinking habit at a time when tequila-downing is smiled, salt-licked and lime-squeezed upon.

The rarity of existing tequila expertise is due to the fact that, unlike other alcohols, tequila is associated with bad decisions. Surprised? Well you shouldn’t be – everyone has a bad ‘tequila’ story, or at least a foggy memory of what happened the night before the worst hangover of their lives. Such memories make people who drink tequila in the daytime appear to have a alcohol problem.  For instance, ordering a delicious tequila and grapefruit at brunch, runs you the risk of becoming a ‘social hazard’ at the table.

To most people, the only ‘normal’ way to drink tequila is by slathering some salt on their hand (or a drunk chick’s stomach), taking a bite out of a lime wedge, and knocking a mixto brand back out of a chipped shot glass.

The average bar is not a place where most agave aficionados can properly indulge their habit. For the tequila connoisseur, shooting low-quality tequila in this way is a misguided ritual for the unaware. But in the privacy of their own home, they are able remove their cloak of indifference and enjoy a snifter of a 100% agave variety, probably smuggled home in their luggage from Mexico.

Although it’s a sad truth for those who love it, tequila has always been the dirty one-night-stand of liquors.

That is before Catherine and Sandy MacFadyen, husband and wife and co-owners, opened the doors of Reposado.  Their redemption of tequila’s virtue is one of the major reasons the bar has managed to stay the trendy course for the past three years.

“We’ve always loved Mexico and have been sipping fantastic tequila for years but there was never a place for us in Toronto, so we decided to skip the flight and open our own,” said Catherine.

Beyond delivering some heat to your palette with the 55 tequilas behind the bar, Reposado also has a kitchen downstairs that serves up tasty tequila-inspired treats, namely tequila-cured smoked salmon with crostini and spicy pickle, picante crab cakes and empanada flights.

“Although it might not be the traditional thing to do, tequila is actually a excellent drink to pair with certain foods, especially jalapeño or chili dishes in Toronto’s freezing weather,” said Andrea Barber. “A tequila pairing menu is a great way to give a dinner party some flair, and it never fails to make things more interesting.”

The following is a tequila-pairing menu I cooked up to get tequila newbies on the path to true appreciation (and maybe a little tipsy too):

Tequila Pairing Menu

Course I

Clase Azule Platino

Empanadas stuffed with anchovies, black olives, sundried tomatoes and drizzled with chili oil.

This extremely smooth and slightly sweet tequila will contrast nicely with the salty flavours in the empanadas.

Course II

Mezcal Jaral DeBerrio

Mexican taco salad with Corno di Toro peppers, tomatoes, cucumber, corn, avacado, jicama, black beans and cilantro served over garlicky black corn tortilla chips.

This water clear tequila has a mild aroma suggesting cucumber; and a medium viscosity with a hint of spice and dominant vegetable notes, making it a classic fit for a freshly chopped salad.

Course III

Don Julio Blanco Blood Orange Margarita

Grilled Sea Bass marinated in tequila, lemon-lime and jalapeños. Served with Grilled Blood Oranges and Stuffed Serrano Peppers with Oaxaca Cheese.

This tequila has strong agave expression and fresh citrus notes – an ideal base for a salty marguerita and perfectly paired with a citrus and whitefish meal.

Course IV

Patron XO Café Tequila Liqueur

Sopapilla Cheescake Pie with Mexican Vanilla and Lime Ice Cream

This coffee bean coloured tequila liqueur has an aroma of sweet espresso and a rich taste of coffee,vanilla, honey and lime. It is best served on ice, and is a lovely match for a creamy and citrusy dessert.

Tequila lovers can rest assured that their habit no longer requires underground lairs, masks or hidden identities.  Reposado, Ossington’s beloved bat cave, has converted  society’s opinion of tequila connoisseurs from a mutant breed of bar fly, to an accepted member of the spirituous population. This gifted little tapas bar has reversed the need to hide, and now tipplers of all origins can drink, sip, swirl, or knock back in perfect harmony.

Because once tequila-drinkers harness the power of Reposado, it becomes a whole new world for superheroes.

Editor’s Note: A big part of why local-is-the-new-black.com was founded was to share my love of eating. This includes tasting treats at local markets, cooking gourmet meals with the family, fine dining  at restaurants or just pigging out with girlfriends on the couch.

As a foodie, I’ve cultivated a bit of a gourmet palette, something that has become both a blessing and a curse.  It’s a blessing because I make a point to eat truly delicious food often, but a curse because instead of sleeping, I’m working off the night before at the gym!  Overtime though I have perfected this gourmet eating habit of mine, and started creating meals that taste indulgent but are in fact quite diet-friendly.

Although I like the thought of a kitchen large enough to feed my readers some of these favourite dishes, I’ve decided instead to start up a weekly recipe blog titled: “Sexy Foodie: Skinny and Seasonal Recipes for the Occasional Cheater.” Once a week, the blog will take a look at what I’m cooking, using all local ingredients.  The recipes are created for a healthy lifestyle, and while will taste indulgent, will actually be light enough to suit most diet plans. After all if we’re going to bring the sexy back to Toronto’s culinary scene, us foodies need to be lookin’ good!

Sexy Foodie

Skinny and Seasonal Recipes for the Occasional Cheater

Recipe 1: Foxy Fish Fry

All ingredients were purchased at The Big Carrot, 348 Danforth Ave., Toronto.

Nothing says T.G.I.F. to me quite like a fish fry! Some great places in Toronto to sample this greasy catch are Fridays at Chippy’s, The Wheat Sheaf, Harbord Fish and Chips or The Drake Hotel.

While, a fish fry, may be a favourite end-of-the-work-week pig-out meal,  Torontonians like myself looking to indulge in this classic, fatty dish are also looking at a belt-busting blow to their diet all week.

The alternative? Pop over to your local organic market after work, pick up some fresh Ontario veggies, and fresh or frozen wild atlantic salmon (a healthier fish choice thanks to Omega-3s) and make a skinny and seasonal “fish fry” yourself!

For those looking to enjoy a fish fry while still keeping their belt hook in the same loop, I have come up with a recipe of my own. In place of breaded and beer battered fish, french fries and creamed spinach, we’ll be making panko-crusted salmon, baked sweet potato fries and braised garlicky escarole.

Sweet Potato Fries

2 large sweet potatoes , peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips

1 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon fresh ground pepper

Braised Garlicky Escarole

1 large head of fresh escarole

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 garlic cloves, sliced

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 bay leaves

1/2 lemon, cut in thin slices

2 cups chicken or fish stock

Pinch sugar

Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

Panko-Crusted Salmon

1 8 oz. wild Atlantic salmon fillet

1/2 cup Panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs

1/2 cup finely chopped green onion

½ tablespoon fresh lemon zest

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

1 tablespoon whole grain mustard

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 ½ tablespoons dry vermouth

1 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Directions

Preheat oven to 425°. Cover a baking sheet with 2 pieces of aluminum foil on each side.

In a small bowl combine the horseradish, green onions, lemon zest, mustard, dry vermouth and 2 tablespoons of garlic. When it is evenly combined, add the bread crumbs and toss them gently. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil over the crumb mixture and stir lightly. Season the mixture, to taste, with salt and pepper.

Place the sweet potato strips in a large bowl with the olive oil, salt and pepper mixed at the bottom. Work the strips through the mixture to coat each strip evenly. Spread the sweet potato strips out onto the baking sheet in a single layer. Bake for 30 minutes, turning every 10 minutes with spatula.

After putting the potato strips in the oven, rinse the escarole, shake the leaves dry, stack them up, and slice the larger leaves crosswise into ribbons about 1 1/2-inches wide. Place a large deep skillet over medium heat and add the olive oil, garlic, red pepper flakes, bay leaves, and lemon slices; cook and stir for a couple of minutes, tossing to combine. Nestle the escarole into the pan and saute until it begins to wilt and shrink down, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle the escarole with a pinch of sugar and season with salt and pepper. Pour in the water and cover the pan. Simmer for 20 minutes until the escarole is tender.

After the potato strips have been in the oven for 15 minutes, season the salmon fillet with salt and pepper then heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. When the oil just begins to smoke, sear the salmon fillet, topside down, for 2 to 3 minutes. Spread the panko mixture over the top of the fish creating an even layer 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch thick. Bake the salmon on the second piece of tin foil, opposite from the potato strips, on the same baking sheet. Roast the salmon until the crust is golden brown and fish is just firm, approximately 5 to 7 minutes.

Last season, on November 9, 2009,Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) made like harvest and gathered together some of Ontario’s most vital farmers, distributors and producers for a feast of the foodie minds – the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance Summit.

The event began with a discussion between three titans of culinary tourism, Jason Parsons, Head Chef, Peller Estates Winery Restaurant, Arlene Stein, Director of Events at Hart House and Mike Whittamore, Producer, Whittamore Farms.  The lively debate, moderated by Kevin Brauch, host of The Food Network’s “The Thirsty Traveller,” moved down a food chain of topics relevant to culinary arts activists.

One major topic served up was the importance of relationship building between local farmers and chefs – a key connection to improving the quality of food served in Toronto.

Local growers should feel confident in their expertise and extend offers to educate chefs on the quality of their crops.

“Chefs are like rock stars now,” said Brauch, noting the rising status of those behind some of the city’s most revered restaurants.

But despite an intimidating status, “It’s important for farmers to face the fear and knock on the kitchen door of restaurants and get chefs to taste their produce,” said chef Parsons.

Basically when it comes to initiating culinary tourism, the real ‘rock star’ should always be the food. And according to one of best in Ontario growing it, Mike Whittamore, it is.

“Ontario has some of the best soils in the world,” said Whittamore, “and that means our province also grows some of the best crops.”

According to research by Local Food Plus (LFP) a non-profit organization working to build a market for local sustainable food, 79 per cent of Central Ontarians recognize this and prefer to buy locally grown food.

“The driving force behind this preference is both the anxiety of bioterrorism and the desire to buy good food with a good story attached – people like to support hometown heroes of the culinary world,” said Rebecca LeHeup, Executive Director of OCTA .

Next to the stage was the Ontario Minister of Agriculture Food and Rural Affairs Leona Dombrowsky, who rallied the crowd towards measures for agricultural success.  “When agriculturalists innovate, that’s when culinary tourism get an edge,” said Dombrowsky.

The Minister stressed the importance of the culinary arts community not resting on their laurels. She also stated that a profitable future for Ontario farmers requires producers to stay ahead of culinary trends. By tailoring crops to chef requests, using the most advanced and environmentally safe farming methods, and expanding their customer reach, farmers can start putting more forks in their produce.

OCTA started that trend at lunchtime, by inviting all guests to a meet and greet lunch hosted by Green Belt Canada.  Attendees were treated to lunch supplied by local chefs and farmers, as well as a room full of Ontario food samples. Hungry for both snacks and opportunity, fresh produce and business cards were handed around like hors d’oeuvres.  The meet and greet was a excellent way for local-minded guests to network and exchange tasty treats and tips.

For the afternoon portion, the crowd was led back into the conference to learn about “Mapping a Culinary Destination,” three representatives from emerging culinary destinations were given the floor to discuss their plans, successes and challenges for putting their regions on the foodie map. Rebecca LeHeup moderated the discussion between Danielle Broadhagen of Savour Stratford, Kerri King of Durham Tourism, and  Jaimi Ruoho-Long of  Peterborough and Kawartha Tourism.

After a lively chat regarding issues surrounding the local food movement, the representatives counted down a top ten list of solutions:

1. Create local food ‘clusters’ in your region
2. Work closely with growers associations’ agricultural action committees
3. Support and fund local initiative that links farmers to consumers
4. Educate consumers and food service providers about how to use and source local products
5. Advocate for a Local Food and Farming Act
6. Advocate for a Local Food Procurement Policy
7. Encourage regional farming strategies
8. Compile regional food action plans
9. Establish agricultural enterprise zones
10. Initiate multi-sector food and farming councils

The last talk of the day was given by communications expert Barry Martin of Hypnotic. Martin laid out a recipe for success through social media. He discussed how a local farmer and/or producer can cook up business by becoming a dynamic presence on online culinary communities. Martin suggested the regular use of Twitter, writing a personal blog and expanding contacts online as vital ways to help local foodies stay connected.

Finally, the OCTA Summit closed out with a Taste of Ontario Reception and a pairing of the day’s stew of helpful information with some award-winning VQA wines.

The main dish of the day was certainly the theme of “farm to table” cuisine.  But like any great meal, there must be several courses served up in order. The first step for Ontario farmers and producers to promote the “farm to table” movement is taking their local goods out on the town. Promoting local edibles to busy shops and restaurants, respected chefs, and popular urban spaces is a sure-fire way to make local cuisine the hottest plate around.

After all, it only takes an amuse bouche of local produce, before the rest of the world becomes hungry for Ontario’s culinary arts.

Bartenders might not generally be known for their “do right” antics, but it seems that when the calendar serves up the holidays, with a lick of giving spirit, a shot of the warm n’ fuzzies, chased with perhaps a bit of seasonal guilt, and drink-slingers catch a do-gooder buzz.

Perfect example was last night in The Drake Hotel’s Underground at the first-annual Bartender’s Ball and Christmas Toy Drive. The black-tied mayhem was put on to raise money and collect toys for the CP24/CHUM Christmas Wish, a charity that last year gave 74,388 children toys for Christmas.

Hosted by two of The Drake’s notoriously rowdy shot-pushers, Simon Ho, Cameron Hutton and friend Steve Mckeon from WrongBar the night featured the dj mixing talents of Montreal’s GRANDTHEFT, and Your Boy Brian.

“Think of the children!” was a common (and loud) response to any hesitations for shot-downing.  Revelers expressed healthy enthusiasm for fund-raising throughout the night, and were rewarded with some surprisingly excellent prizes, namely a trip for two to Cuba.

“We decided to do our best this holiday season to do something good, for once,” said the tuxedo-decked Ho humbly with a smile.

And despite the gong-show appeal for industry urbanites lookin’ to knock ten back in good conscience (entrance was a $10 donation or $5 with a toy), the night was in fact a very good thing for a very good cause.

Philanthropy might not be the most common trait behind the bar, but the boys behind The Bartender’s Ball poured a tasty glass of humanitarianism, mixed with just the right amount of “any excuse to drink” last night, and everyone had a blast.

A worthy hangover indeed.

In a world of paparazzi-star turned singer, tabloid-inspired lyrics and exhausted auto-tune, it can be hard to spot natural talent in the music biz.

But Chris Caddell is the real deal.

Have a pint and listen to Chris Caddell play guitar, and you will be reminded of the craftsmanship and artful talent that used to characterized the music industry. Caddell takes his audience back to a time when guitarists were superheroes – a time when Jimi Hendrix electrified anthems and Eric Clapton sang about heaven like it was a place he’d been.

Chis Caddell is a guitarist of rare breed.  You know its Caddell on the tune, not only because of his signature raspy voice but because he makes the guitar sing too. He is an animated player and one who plays his stringed songbird (always a Fender) as if it were an extension of his arm. But Caddell’s guitar definitely has a life of it’s own.

Since arriving in Toronto in 2002, Caddell has become one of the most sought-after musicians in Canada. He has shared the recording studio and stage with the late Jeff Healey, Ian Thornley, Colin James, Hawksley Workman, Amanda Marshall, Sass Jordan, Melissa O’Neill, Rex Goudie, Tara Sloane, Susie McNeil, and Fefe Dobson.

Caddell’s debut album, “Chris Caddell and The Wreckage” is a southern rock album with all the makings of a classic. Produced by Casey Marshall (EMI Publishing), the album features co-writing credits and back-up vocals by Canadian rocker, Ian Thornley. Highlights off the album include the unbelievably catchy “Through My Hands (Electric),” the blue-collar anthem “Workin,” and “People Get Ready,” an insightful and soulful cover of the Curtis Mayfield classic.

Caddell has long been inspired by the likes of Jimmi Hendrix and is always the first to list off his music inspirations – rock gods such as Stevie Ray Vaughn, Eric Clapton,  Jimmy Page, B.B. King, Colin James and Doyle Bramhall II are frequently covered by Caddell. But fans of Chris know it won’t be long before he’s hailed in the same light.

These days true talent might seem like a myth in the music biz, but when Chris Caddell makes rock, he makes you a believer.

www.myspace.com/chriscaddell

(Also published by BlogTO and Gremolata.com)

Grocery shopping has never made me more hungry. For Toronto foodies, walking into the Wychwood Barns Farmers Market is like being a kid in a candy store.Local farmers, bakers and producers of cheese, honey and jams sell fresh treats every Saturday. It’s a one-stop-shop for all your cravings.

Walking in with a camera, I was instantly approached by Wychwood Barns regulars and swooped up for a Wychwood trivia-filled tour. For the people who spend their Saturdays shopping here, it isn’t an errand – it’s an event and the whole family’s coming.

“This is Ted from Thorpe’s Organic Produce, he is the king farmer of the market,” said Jack, pointing out a fellow regular of the Barns. “He’s barefoot here in the summertime, and he sells the best produce.”

It also seems that at Wychwood Barns, foodie culture starts young. I am schooled by eight-year-old Joe, who tells me about the best cooking methods to make meals from goods bought at the Barns. My jaw drops as I listen to the youngster tells me about last week’s dinner using a “naturally sourced pistachio-crusted Georgian Bay white fish.”

Next I meet Marcus and Damian from High Mark Farm in Cookstown, and learn about High Mark’s organic farming methods. They spray garlic centrate and liquefied copper to on vegetables instead of pesticides –  a self-taught trick that keeps the produce more safe and natural.  I also learn about their background – partners and brothers, Marcus and Damian give me a two-minute lesson on their Italian and Greek cooking styles.  They also snuck some fresh mint-seasoned Halumi cheese in my bag, along with their Mother’s recipe for frying it with homemade ouzo pasta.

My tummy rumbles as head over to the honeyed aromas at Karen’s Kitchen -  a table that appears to have almost sold out in the first couple hours. Karen, is a woman in demand and bakes about 350 gluten and sugar-free loaves, muffins, tarts, bars and buns per week.  All the treats are made with “her own special flour blend of arrow root, millet, rice, bean flour and quinoa, and are sweetened without sugar.”

“I’ve just got a good oven,” shrugs off Karen, “and my husband does the shopping.”

After shaking off my baked good coma (and many muffin crumbs), I visit the Toorshi Foods pickle table.  I go for the spiciest pickled pepper on the table and then go straight for my water. Although it’s only their second year at the Barns, the Toorshi family have been pickling veg for over 50 years. Today the clan keeps busy pickling up 200 jars per day.

I spend another hour or so, meandering about the market, introducing my palette to more delicious treats and chatting with the vendors. Leaving I promise that yes, I’ll be back next week.

And I go home full and happy.

Sit al fresco on any major sidewalk and it’s abundantly clear that Toronto loves a good trend.  The downtown core moonlights as a runway for stylish urbanites to test out style experiments.

Likewise whatever the latest dining got-to-try-it style, Toronto’s got a new bar or restaurant to satisfy that craving.

But to rock the latest or edgiest trend, it’s smart to anchor that look something classic, like a black leather jacket or sexy black heels.

It’s easy to do with what you wear and it’s easy to do with what you eat and drink. Committing to local culinary choices in Toronto isn’t like wearing a uniform.  No ball and chain required…

It starts with just getting more informed.  Of course this site will be a resource but it’s a good thing to take the local movement into your own hands too. Here are some ideas to get you started:

• Make a point to check out local restaurants that specialize in ‘farm to table’ cuisine. In other words, restaurants that design their menu around what’s in season and that create dishes to make local produce taste amazing. That’s how local cuisine takes shape!

• Order up local wine in restaurants. Ontario has some of the best wine in the world and it’s totally unique to our region. Plus sipping local wine with local food gets you more bang for your buck because your meal will tastes better. Think about it this way: would you sit in a Parisian restaurant and not order a French wine? No, because that would take away from the local experience.  It’s the same for Toronto cuisine. So if you don’t know now you know!

• In general just TALK about this stuff more. Get chatty with local chefs, sommeliers, retailers, baristas, bakers, cheese-makers, butchers ect. Ask the chef which butcher that amazing steak was from.  Talk to your favourite cheese maker about why local dairy farmers are unique. If a wine menu doesn’t offer local wine, ask the restaurant or bar manager why. Toronto sommeliers love Ontario wine but often won’t feature it on wine lists because they think Torontonians will ignore it. Simply put: if you care than show that you do – when you like something, say something! By creating a dialogue, the local food and wine movement in Toronto is put on the city’s agenda and gains momentum.

• Ask bartenders and servers for a VQA wine pairing recommendations. Developing your palette allows you to grow more refined, and good taste is hot.

• Buy more VQA wine at the LCBO. Google the local wine you bought and read about the vineyard it came from. and the international awards it’s won. This will make you happy for a bonus three reasons: 1. you’ll feel a little pride 2. you won’t be the one that brought that crap wine to the party. 3. hangovers have never felt less guilty when you’ve gotten sloshed on local wine.

• Pop into local bakeries, cheese shops and coffee beaneries more.  Toronto has no shortage of passionate people spending their lives making unique and homemade treats. Yum!

• At the grocery store try to stick to the 100-mile rule when buying food.  When you support local and seasonal meat and produce, you are really helping local farmers.  Living in a concrete jungle it’s sometimes hard to always see how that’s important. Just remember that in Ontario Toronto might be a lion, but rural areas are a big part of our economic food chain. And they feed us when we’re hungry.