Growing Up Veggie in a Foodie World: The tricky art of pairing vegetarian food with wine

Being both a vegetarian and a foodie at a wine-pairing dinner party can feel like you’re sitting at the kiddy table.

Since traditionally wine is paired with meat, poultry or seafood, vegetarians in attendance are usually going to get the substitute dish- an easy-to-eat veggie dish; fit for a kid, but still are poured a shiraz meant for the steak tartar.

And not only are herbivores going to feel left out, these rare bon vivants are also going to have to spend group meals explaining their lifestyle choice  by the  first wine poured, and taking dead animal jokes by the fifth.

However, with a little know-how and the right menu, vegetarians can upgrade their dining experiences and graduate to meat-free wine-pairing meals gourmet enough to satisfy even the most carnivorous of taste buds.

To create a multi-course vegetarian dinner for meat-eaters, plant-eaters should be careful to keep the menu as traditional as possible – hors d’oeuvres with sparkling wine, followed by a soup or salad, a pasta course, a rich main, and finished with dessert and aperitif. It is also important to hit all the major vegetarian food groups to keep the meal both nutritious and satisfying. Preparing the meal in this way will prevent carnivores from writing off the meal as a vegetarian novelty, and will keep the spotlight on great taste.

The trick to partnering a vegetarian meal with wine is to combine flavourful ingredients with cooking methods that help to enrich the dish.  For instance, adding warm spices like cinnamon and ginger will give gusto to a sauce, while grilling or roasting vegetables will help to caramelize and heighten flavour.

Also, ingredients such as miso and soy can replicate the taste of meat, and bold cheeses, aged balsamic vinegar, chestnuts or walnuts act as substitutes for the meaty tastes. Essentially, the stronger the flavours, the more compatible a vegetarian meal becomes to wine.

As with any rule of thumb for wine pairing, there are certain staples of a vegetarian diet that match different wines best.  Reds of a Bordeaux-style such as Syrah, Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon blend are suitable to vegetable dishes, specifically those with enough richness to tame strong tannins – sautéed mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, garlic, grilled eggplant, barbecued tofu, smoked beans and chipotle peppers.

For a dry red or white wine with softer tannins such as a Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Sauvignon Blanc stick to dishes with mid-weight savoury flavours.

Ingredients like herbed cheeses, legumes, nuts, herbs, breads and raw vegetables will compliment and never overpower these lighter wines.

Full-bodied white wines such as Gewürztraminer, Riesling or Chardonnay taste wonderful with sweet and rich vegetables like sweet potato, butternut squash and roasted red peppers or creamy sauces with almonds or hazelnuts (which can help to pick up Chardonnay’s oak flavours).

To put newly acquired vegetarian wine-pairing knowledge into practice, treat meat-biased foodie friends to the following vegetarian VQA wine-pairing menu:

Course One

Chili and Miso Baked Tofu with Spinach in a Filo Pastry Puff

Château des Charmes Méthode Traditionnelle Brut Rosé 2005, LCBO $28.95

This sparkling rosé starts with sweet cherry notes that are in compatible contrast to the chili spice, yet has moderate acidity and a dry finish to compliment the dish’s savoury flavours.

Course Two

Porcini, Chickpea and Fennel Salad with Sage Oil

Flat Rock Cellars Gravity Pinot Noir 2007, LCBO Vintages $29.95

A Pinot Noir is a dry, medium full-bodied red and is fantastic option for a savoury vegetarian salad.  This wine in particular works beautifully as it posseses aromas which suggest hummus and smoked meat; complimenting the chickpeas and porcini mushrooms.

Course Three

Carmelized Onion and Squash Ravioli with Roasted Lentils in an Almond Butter Sauce

Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve 2007, LCBO Vintages $25.00

This full bodied chardonnay is in perfect harmony with the buttery root vegetable pasta thanks to aromas and flavours of warm peach, vanilla and hazelnut.  This wine is also balanced by a refreshing acidity to balance the dish’s salt flavours before leading to a lovely, long finish.

Course Four

Eggplant Gratin with Roasted Tomatoes, Barbecue Tempeh Polenta and Saffron Custard

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Cabernet/Merlot Blend, LCBO Vintages $19.95

This Cabernet/Merlot Blend is made in a Bordeaux style and is a marvelous partner for such a rich eggplant dish thanks to its strong structure, natural fruit and crisp acidity. As mentioned earlier, a Bordeaux-influenced red is an excellent choice for vegetarian meals as it remains full-bodied without overpowering a meat-free dish.

Course Five

Ginger Brandy Cheesecake with Mandarin Orange Glaze

Malivoire Gewürztraminer Ice Wine 2008, LCBO Vintages $39.95

This ice wine is unique in that it is made from Gewürztraminer grapes, rather than from typical Rieslings or Vidals. Gewürztraminer is a special choice for this asian-inspired dessert as it has a pleasing aroma of honeyed lychees and mandarians, with the slightest hint of spice pronounced by a tingle on the nose – perfect for the ginger flavour. Ice wines are considered the brandy or cognac of wines, and this Malivoire, especially when chilled, is a sweet aperatif to close out a delicious meal.

Vegetarian wine-pairing might still be a budding trend, but watch closely because this culinary art is growing up fast.

Local Hotspot: Batman Drinks Tequila at Reposado

photo courtesy of Ryan Szulc

Reposado is known in its hood as one of the original lead birds of Ossington’s flock of bars and restaurants. But for local tequila drinkers in Toronto, its opening was much more like a long-awaited beacon in the night, and like moths to a flame they flew in.

Before Reposado opened in 2007, tequila tipplers in Toronto were often riddled with social scrutiny of their habit and forced to lead a double life. These die-hards kept their identities quiet ‘cause tequila’s got a bad rep.

It’s as if tequila drinkers were the superheroes of Toronto’s liquor-appreciating lot – the Batmen of judgmental Gotham.

This shouldn’t be a shock – how many tequila connoisseurs had you met before agave liquor flowed freely at Reposado? Slamming down prairie fires isn’t in the same vein, and neither is getting sloshed from blender margaritas.

According to the resident tequila experts at Reposado – Catherine MacFadyen, co-owner and Andrea Barber, bar manager – a true tequila connoisseur is a rather civilized drinker with particular and excellent taste. A good time bon vivant if you will.

Yet, for years, they have almost always been allusive. Like Reposado’s logo – the bat – tequila drinkers have long been creatures of the night – forced to appease their normal drinking habit at a time when tequila-downing is smiled, salt-licked and lime-squeezed upon.

The rarity of existing tequila expertise is due to the fact that, unlike other alcohols, tequila is associated with bad decisions. Surprised? Well you shouldn’t be – everyone has a bad ‘tequila’ story, or at least a foggy memory of what happened the night before the worst hangover of their lives. Such memories make people who drink tequila in the daytime appear to have a alcohol problem.  For instance, ordering a delicious tequila and grapefruit at brunch, runs you the risk of becoming a ‘social hazard’ at the table. But even grandmas drink mimosas.

To most people, the only ‘normal’ way to drink tequila is by slathering some salt on their hand (or a drunk chick’s stomach), taking a bite out of a germy lime wedge, and knocking a mixto brand back out of a cheap shot glass.

photo courtesy of Ryan Szulc

The average bar is not a place where most agave aficionados can properly indulge their habit. For the tequila connoisseur, shooting low-quality tequila in this way is a misguided ritual for the unaware. But in the privacy of their own home, they are able remove their cloak of indifference and enjoy a snifter of a 100% agave variety, probably smuggled home in their luggage from Mexico.

Although it’s a sad truth for those who love it, tequila has always been the dirty one-night-stand of liquors.

That is before Catherine and Sandy MacFadyen, husband and wife and co-owners, opened the doors of Reposado.  Their redemption of tequila’s virtue is one of the major reasons the bar has managed to stay the trendy course for the past three years.

“We’ve always loved Mexico and have been sipping fantastic tequila for years but there was never a place for us in Toronto, so we decided to skip the flight and open our own,” said Catherine.

photo courtesy of Ryan Szulc

Beyond delivering some heat to your palette with the 55 tequilas behind the bar, Reposado also has a kitchen downstairs that serves up tasty tequila-inspired treats, namely tequila-cured smoked salmon with crostini and spicy pickle, picante crab cakes and empanada flights.

“Although it might not be the traditional thing to do, tequila is actually a excellent drink to pair with certain foods, especially jalapeño or chili dishes in Toronto’s freezing weather,” said Andrea Barber. “A tequila pairing menu is a great way to give a dinner party some flair, and it never fails to make things more interesting.”

photo courtesy of Ryan Szulc

The following is a tequila-pairing menu I cooked up to get tequila newbies on the path to true appreciation (and maybe a little tipsy too):

Tequila Pairing Menu

Course I

Clase Azule Platino

Empanadas stuffed with anchovies, black olives, sundried tomatoes and drizzled with chili oil.

This extremely smooth and slightly sweet tequila will contrast nicely with the salty flavours in the empanadas.

Course II

Mezcal Jaral DeBerrio

Mexican taco salad with Corno di Toro peppers, tomatoes, cucumber, corn, avacado, jicama, black beans and cilantro served over garlicky black corn tortilla chips.

This water clear tequila has a mild aroma suggesting cucumber; and a medium viscosity with a hint of spice and dominant vegetable notes, making it a classic fit for a freshly chopped salad.

Course III

Don Julio Blanco Blood Orange Margarita

Grilled Sea Bass marinated in tequila, lemon-lime and jalapeños. Served with Grilled Blood Oranges and Stuffed Serrano Peppers with Oaxaca Cheese.

This tequila has strong agave expression and fresh citrus notes – an ideal base for a salty marguerita and perfectly paired with a citrus and whitefish meal.

Course IV

Patron XO Café Tequila Liqueur

Sopapilla Cheescake Pie with Mexican Vanilla and Lime Ice Cream

This coffee bean coloured tequila liqueur has an aroma of sweet espresso and a rich taste of coffee,vanilla, honey and lime. It is best served on ice, and is a lovely match for a creamy and citrusy dessert.

Tequila lovers can rest assured that their habit no longer requires underground lairs, masks or hidden identities.  Reposado, Ossington’s beloved bat cave, has converted  society’s opinion of tequila connoisseurs from a mutant breed of bar fly, to an accepted member of the spirituous population. This gifted little tapas bar has reversed the need to hide, and now tipplers of all origins can drink, sip, swirl, or knock back in perfect harmony.

Because once tequila-drinkers harness the power of Reposado, it becomes a whole new world for superheroes.

Sexy Foodie: Skinny and Seasonal Recipes for the Occasional Cheater Recipe 1: Foxy Fish Fry

Editor’s Note: A big part of why local-is-the-new-black.com was founded was to share my love of eating. This includes tasting treats at local markets, cooking gourmet meals with the family, fine dining  at restaurants or just pigging out with girlfriends on the couch.

As a foodie, I’ve cultivated a bit of a gourmet palette, something that has become both a blessing and a curse.  It’s a blessing because I make a point to eat truly delicious food often, but a curse because instead of sleeping, I’m working off the night before at the gym!  Overtime though I have perfected this gourmet eating habit of mine, and started creating meals that taste indulgent but are in fact quite diet-friendly.

Although I like the thought of a kitchen large enough to feed my readers some of these favourite dishes, I’ve decided instead to start up a weekly recipe blog titled: “Sexy Foodie: Skinny and Seasonal Recipes for the Occasional Cheater.” Once a week, the blog will take a look at what I’m cooking, using all local ingredients.  The recipes are created for a healthy lifestyle, and while will taste indulgent, will actually be light enough to suit most diet plans. After all if we’re going to bring the sexy back to Toronto’s culinary scene, us foodies need to be lookin’ good!

Sexy Foodie

Skinny and Seasonal Recipes for the Occasional Cheater

Recipe 1: Foxy Fish Fry

All ingredients were purchased at The Big Carrot, 348 Danforth Ave., Toronto.

Nothing says T.G.I.F. to me quite like a fish fry! Some great places in Toronto to sample this greasy catch are Fridays at Chippy’s, The Wheat Sheaf, Harbord Fish and Chips or The Drake Hotel.

While, a fish fry, may be a favourite end-of-the-work-week pig-out meal,  Torontonians like myself looking to indulge in this classic, fatty dish are also looking at a belt-busting blow to their diet all week.

The alternative? Pop over to your local organic market after work, pick up some fresh Ontario veggies, and fresh or frozen wild atlantic salmon (a healthier fish choice thanks to Omega-3s) and make a skinny and seasonal “fish fry” yourself!

For those looking to enjoy a fish fry while still keeping their belt hook in the same loop, I have come up with a recipe of my own. In place of breaded and beer battered fish, french fries and creamed spinach, we’ll be making panko-crusted salmon, baked sweet potato fries and braised garlicky escarole.

Sweet Potato Fries

2 large sweet potatoes , peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips

1 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon fresh ground pepper

Braised Garlicky Escarole

1 large head of fresh escarole

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 garlic cloves, sliced

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 bay leaves

1/2 lemon, cut in thin slices

2 cups chicken or fish stock

Pinch sugar

Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

Panko-Crusted Salmon

1 8 oz. wild Atlantic salmon fillet

1/2 cup Panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs

1/2 cup finely chopped green onion

½ tablespoon fresh lemon zest

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

1 tablespoon whole grain mustard

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 ½ tablespoons dry vermouth

1 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Directions

Preheat oven to 425°. Cover a baking sheet with 2 pieces of aluminum foil on each side.

In a small bowl combine the horseradish, green onions, lemon zest, mustard, dry vermouth and 2 tablespoons of garlic. When it is evenly combined, add the bread crumbs and toss them gently. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil over the crumb mixture and stir lightly. Season the mixture, to taste, with salt and pepper.

Place the sweet potato strips in a large bowl with the olive oil, salt and pepper mixed at the bottom. Work the strips through the mixture to coat each strip evenly. Spread the sweet potato strips out onto the baking sheet in a single layer. Bake for 30 minutes, turning every 10 minutes with spatula.

After putting the potato strips in the oven, rinse the escarole, shake the leaves dry, stack them up, and slice the larger leaves crosswise into ribbons about 1 1/2-inches wide. Place a large deep skillet over medium heat and add the olive oil, garlic, red pepper flakes, bay leaves, and lemon slices; cook and stir for a couple of minutes, tossing to combine. Nestle the escarole into the pan and saute until it begins to wilt and shrink down, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle the escarole with a pinch of sugar and season with salt and pepper. Pour in the water and cover the pan. Simmer for 20 minutes until the escarole is tender.

After the potato strips have been in the oven for 15 minutes, season the salmon fillet with salt and pepper then heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. When the oil just begins to smoke, sear the salmon fillet, topside down, for 2 to 3 minutes. Spread the panko mixture over the top of the fish creating an even layer 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch thick. Bake the salmon on the second piece of tin foil, opposite from the potato strips, on the same baking sheet. Roast the salmon until the crust is golden brown and fish is just firm, approximately 5 to 7 minutes.


Local Foodies Serve Up Food for Thought at OCTA Summit ‘09

Last season, on November 9, 2009,Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) made like harvest and gathered together some of Ontario’s most vital farmers, distributors and producers for a feast of the foodie minds – the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance Summit.

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The event began with a discussion between three titans of culinary tourism, Jason Parsons, Head Chef, Peller Estates Winery Restaurant, Arlene Stein, Director of Events at Hart House and Mike Whittamore, Producer, Whittamore Farms.  The lively debate, moderated by Kevin Brauch, host of The Food Network’s “The Thirsty Traveller,” moved down a food chain of topics relevant to culinary arts activists.

One major topic served up was the importance of relationship building between local farmers and chefs – a key connection to improving the quality of food served in Toronto.

Local growers should feel confident in their expertise and extend offers to educate chefs on the quality of their crops.

“Chefs are like rock stars now,” said Brauch, noting the rising status of those behind some of the city’s most revered restaurants.

But despite an intimidating status, “It’s important for farmers to face the fear and knock on the kitchen door of restaurants and get chefs to taste their produce,” said chef Parsons.

Basically when it comes to initiating culinary tourism, the real ‘rock star’ should always be the food. And according to one of best in Ontario growing it, Mike Whittamore, it is.

“Ontario has some of the best soils in the world,” said Whittamore, “and that means our province also grows some of the best crops.”

According to research by Local Food Plus (LFP) a non-profit organization working to build a market for local sustainable food, 79 per cent of Central Ontarians recognize this and prefer to buy locally grown food.

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“The driving force behind this preference is both the anxiety of bioterrorism and the desire to buy good food with a good story attached – people like to support hometown heroes of the culinary world,” said Rebecca LeHeup, Executive Director of OCTA .

Next to the stage was the Ontario Minister of Agriculture Food and Rural Affairs Leona Dombrowsky, who rallied the crowd towards measures for agricultural success.  “When agriculturalists innovate, that’s when culinary tourism get an edge,” said Dombrowsky.

The Minister stressed the importance of the culinary arts community not resting on their laurels. She also stated that a profitable future for Ontario farmers requires producers to stay ahead of culinary trends. By tailoring crops to chef requests, using the most advanced and environmentally safe farming methods, and expanding their customer reach, farmers can start putting more forks in their produce.

OCTA started that trend at lunchtime, by inviting all guests to a meet and greet lunch hosted by Green Belt Canada.  Attendees were treated to lunch supplied by local chefs and farmers, as well as a room full of Ontario food samples. Hungry for both snacks and opportunity, fresh produce and business cards were handed around like hors d’oeuvres.  The meet and greet was a excellent way for local-minded guests to network and exchange tasty treats and tips.

For the afternoon portion, the crowd was led back into the conference to learn about “Mapping a Culinary Destination,” three representatives from emerging culinary destinations were given the floor to discuss their plans, successes and challenges for putting their regions on the foodie map. Rebecca LeHeup moderated the discussion between Danielle Broadhagen of Savour Stratford, Kerri King of Durham Tourism, and  Jaimi Ruoho-Long of  Peterborough and Kawartha Tourism.

After a lively chat regarding issues surrounding the local food movement, the representatives counted down a top ten list of solutions:

  1. Create local food ‘clusters’ in your region
  2. Work closely with growers associations’ agricultural action committees
  3. Support and fund local initiative that links farmers to consumers
  4. Educate consumers and food service providers about how to use and source local products
  5. Advocate for a Local Food and Farming Act
  6. Advocate for a Local Food Procurement Policy
  7. Encourage regional farming strategies
  8. Compile regional food action plans
  9. Establish agricultural enterprise zones
  10. Initiate multi-sector food and farming councils

The last talk of the day was given by communications expert Barry Martin of Hypnotic. Martin laid out a recipe for success through social media. He discussed how a local farmer and/or producer can cook up business by becoming a dynamic presence on online culinary communities. Martin suggested the regular use of Twitter, writing a personal blog and expanding contacts online as vital ways to help local foodies stay connected.

Finally, the OCTA Summit closed out with a Taste of Ontario Reception and a pairing of the day’s stew of helpful information with some award-winning VQA wines.

The main dish of the day was certainly the theme of “farm to table” cuisine.  But like any great meal, there must be several courses served up in order. The first step for Ontario farmers and producers to promote the “farm to table” movement is taking their local goods out on the town. Promoting local edibles to busy shops and restaurants, respected chefs, and popular urban spaces is a sure-fire way to make local cuisine the hottest plate around.

After all, it only takes an amuse bouche of local produce, before the rest of the world becomes hungry for Ontario’s culinary arts.

Local Event: The Drake Hotel’s Bartenders Ball

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Bartenders might not generally be known for their “do right” antics, but it seems that when the calendar serves up the holidays, with a lick of giving spirit, a shot of the warm n’ fuzzies, chased with perhaps a bit of seasonal guilt, and drink-slingers catch a do-gooder buzz.

Perfect example was last night in The Drake Hotel’s Underground at the first-annual Bartender’s Ball and Christmas Toy Drive. The black-tied mayhem was put on to raise money and collect toys for the CP24/CHUM Christmas Wish, a charity that last year gave 74,388 children toys for Christmas.

Hosted by two of The Drake’s notoriously rowdy shot-pushers, Simon Ho, Cameron Hutton and friend Steve Mckeon from WrongBar the night featured the dj mixing talents of Montreal’s GRANDTHEFT, and Your Boy Brian.

“Think of the children!” was a common (and loud) response to any hesitations for shot-downing.  Revelers expressed healthy enthusiasm for fund-raising throughout the night, and were rewarded with some surprisingly excellent prizes, namely a trip for two to Cuba.

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“We decided to do our best this holiday season to do something good, for once,” said the tuxedo-decked Ho humbly with a smile.

And despite the gong-show appeal for industry urbanites lookin’ to knock ten back in good conscience (entrance was a $10 donation or $5 with a toy), the night was in fact a very good thing for a very good cause.

Philanthropy might not be the most common trait behind the bar, but the boys behind The Bartender’s Ball poured a tasty glass of humanitarianism, mixed with just the right amount of “any excuse to drink” last night, and everyone had a blast.

A worthy hangover indeed.

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Local Musician: Chris Caddell

photo courtesy of Rick O'Brien

photo courtesy of Rick O'Brien

In a world of paparazzi-star turned singer, tabloid-inspired lyrics and exhausted auto-tune, it can be hard to spot natural talent in the music biz.

But Chris Caddell is the real deal.

Have a pint and listen to Chris Caddell play guitar, and you will be reminded of the craftsmanship and artful talent that used to characterized the music industry. Caddell takes his audience back to a time when guitarists were superheroes – a time when Jimi Hendrix electrified anthems and Eric Clapton sang about heaven like it was a place he’d been.

Chis Caddell is a guitarist of rare breed.  You know its Caddell on the tune, not only because of his signature raspy voice but because he makes the guitar sing too. He is an animated player and one who plays his stringed songbird (always a Fender) as if it were an extension of his arm. But Caddell’s guitar definitely has a life of it’s own.

photo courtesy of Rick O'Brien

photo courtesy of Rick O'Brien

Since arriving in Toronto in 2002, Caddell has become one of the most sought-after musicians in Canada. He has shared the recording studio and stage with the late Jeff Healey, Ian Thornley, Colin James, Hawksley Workman, Amanda Marshall, Sass Jordan, Melissa O’Neill, Rex Goudie, Tara Sloane, Susie McNeil, and Fefe Dobson.

Caddell’s debut album, “Chris Caddell and The Wreckage” is a southern rock album with all the makings of a classic. Produced by Casey Marshall (EMI Publishing), the album features co-writing credits and back-up vocals by Canadian rocker, Ian Thornley. Highlights off the album include the unbelievably catchy “Through My Hands (Electric),” the blue-collar anthem “Workin,” and “People Get Ready,” an insightful and soulful cover of the Curtis Mayfield classic.

Caddell has long been inspired by the likes of Jimmi Hendrix and is always the first to list off his music inspirations – rock gods such as Stevie Ray Vaughn, Eric Clapton,  Jimmy Page, B.B. King, Colin James and Doyle Bramhall II are frequently covered by Caddell. But fans of Chris know it won’t be long before he’s hailed in the same light.

These days true talent might seem like a myth in the music biz, but when Chris Caddell makes rock, he makes you a believer.

www.myspace.com/chriscaddell

Get Your ‘Local’ Foodie on at Wychwood Barns Farmers Market

Wychwood Barns

(Also published by BlogTO and Gremolata.com)

Grocery shopping has never made me more hungry. For Toronto foodies, walking into the Wychwood Barns Farmers Market is like being a kid in a candy store.Local farmers, bakers and producers of cheese, honey and jams sell fresh treats every Saturday. It’s a one-stop-shop for all your cravings.

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Walking in with a camera, I was instantly approached by Wychwood Barns regulars and swooped up for a Wychwood trivia-filled tour. For the people who spend their Saturdays shopping here, it isn’t an errand – it’s an event and the whole family’s coming.

“This is Ted from Thorpe’s Organic Produce, he is the king farmer of the market,” said Jack, pointing out a fellow regular of the Barns. “He’s barefoot here in the summertime, and he sells the best produce.”

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It also seems that at Wychwood Barns, foodie culture starts young. I am schooled by eight-year-old Joe, who tells me about the best cooking methods to make meals from goods bought at the Barns. My jaw drops as I listen to the youngster tells me about last week’s dinner using a “naturally sourced pistachio-crusted Georgian Bay white fish.”

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Next I meet Marcus and Damian from High Mark Farm in Cookstown, and learn about High Mark’s organic farming methods. They spray garlic centrate and liquefied copper to on vegetables instead of pesticides –  a self-taught trick that keeps the produce more safe and natural.  I also learn about their background – partners and brothers, Marcus and Damian give me a two-minute lesson on their Italian and Greek cooking styles.  They also snuck some fresh mint-seasoned Halumi cheese in my bag, along with their Mother’s recipe for frying it with homemade ouzo pasta.

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My tummy rumbles as head over to the honeyed aromas at Karen’s Kitchen -  a table that appears to have almost sold out in the first couple hours. Karen, is a woman in demand and bakes about 350 gluten and sugar-free loaves, muffins, tarts, bars and buns per week.  All the treats are made with “her own special flour blend of arrow root, millet, rice, bean flour and quinoa, and are sweetened without sugar.”

“I’ve just got a good oven,” shrugs off Karen, “and my husband does the shopping.”

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After shaking off my baked good coma (and many muffin crumbs), I visit the Toorshi Foods pickle table.  I go for the spiciest pickled pepper on the table and then go straight for my water. Although it’s only their second year at the Barns, the Toorshi family have been pickling veg for over 50 years. Today the clan keeps busy pickling up 200 jars per day.

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I spend another hour or so, meandering about the market, introducing my palette to more delicious treats and chatting with the vendors. Leaving I promise that yes, I’ll be back next week.

And I go home full and happy.

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Going “Local” Starter Kit

Torontonians

Sit al fresco on any major sidewalk and it’s abundantly clear that Toronto loves a good trend.  The downtown core moonlights as a runway for stylish urbanites to test out style experiments.

Likewise whatever the latest dining got-to-try-it style, Toronto’s got a new bar or restaurant to satisfy that craving.

But to rock the latest or edgiest trend, it’s smart to anchor that look something classic, like a black leather jacket or sexy black heels.

It’s easy to do with what you wear and it’s easy to do with what you eat and drink. Committing to local culinary choices in Toronto isn’t like wearing a uniform.  No ball and chain required…

It starts with just getting more informed.  Of course this site will be a resource but it’s a good thing to take the local movement into your own hands too. Here are some ideas to get you started:

  • Make a point to check out local restaurants that specialize in ‘farm to table’ cuisine. In other words, restaurants that design their menu around what’s in season and that create dishes to make local produce taste amazing. That’s how local cuisine takes shape!
  • Order up local wine in restaurants. Ontario has some of the best wine in the world and it’s totally unique to our region. Plus sipping local wine with local food gets you more bang for your buck because your meal will tastes better. Think about it this way: would you sit in a Parisian restaurant and not order a French wine? No, because that would take away from the local experience.  It’s the same for Toronto cuisine. So if you don’t know now you know!
  • In general just TALK about this stuff more. Get chatty with local chefs, sommeliers, retailers, baristas, bakers, cheese-makers, butchers ect. Ask the chef which butcher that amazing steak was from.  Talk to your favourite cheese maker about why local dairy farmers are unique. If a wine menu doesn’t offer local wine, ask the restaurant or bar manager why. Toronto sommeliers love Ontario wine but often won’t feature it on wine lists because they think Torontonians will ignore it. Simply put: if you care than show that you do – when you like something, say something! By creating a dialogue, the local food and wine movement in Toronto is put on the city’s agenda and gains momentum.
  • Ask bartenders and servers for a VQA wine pairing recommendations. Developing your palette allows you to grow more refined, and good taste is hot.
  • Buy more VQA wine at the LCBO. Google the local wine you bought and read about the vineyard it came from. and the international awards it’s won. This will make you happy for a bonus three reasons: 1. you’ll feel a little pride 2. you won’t be the one that brought that crap wine to the party. 3. hangovers have never felt less guilty when you’ve gotten sloshed on local wine.
  • Pop into local bakeries, cheese shops and coffee beaneries more.  Toronto has no shortage of passionate people spending their lives making unique and homemade treats. Yum!
  • At the grocery store try to stick to the 100-mile rule when buying food.  When you support local and seasonal meat and produce, you are really helping local farmers.  Living in a concrete jungle it’s sometimes hard to always see how that’s important. Just remember that in Ontario Toronto might be a lion, but rural areas are a big part of our economic food chain. And they feed us when we’re hungry.

A Daytrip to Niagara is a Real Trip for Wineos

Niagara Wine Country

Photo courtesy of Rick O’Brien

One bottle of wine down and it’s time for lunch.

We stroll back to our quaint hotel nestled amongst the rolling vineyards, proudly tendered by local vintners to be bottled and drank by happy travelers like me. The lush scenery and the delicious vino beg the question – is Niagara the new Napa?

The Niagara wine region, stretching across the southwest part of the province, along Lake Ontario, is host to a community of wineries and boutique hotels. The temperate climate, diversity of glacial soils and moderating lake effect are important factors in the terroir, that help to create distinctive, not to mention award-winning wines.

Laura Collyer at Hidden Bench Winery

Photo courtesy of Rick O’Brien

“Alot of Torontonians don’t get down to wine country,” said Tony Aspler, Canada’s top wine commentator, “but it is really necessary to really see where the wines are made, and make contact with the industry.”

Before the trip I had anticipated something else. In Toronto, it’s as if the world’s wine industry were high school – Italy is the sexy girl with an older boyfriend, California is the captain of the cheerleading squad, France is voted ‘most beautiful’, and Niagara is the girl with the thick glasses and  the 80’s sweater.

I mean isn’t Niagara the land of Grandma and Grandpa theatre dates and table wine? After having been to Tuscany for wine-tasting, in comparison the idea of Niagara seemed well, not so comparable.  But, don’t knock it till you’ve tasted it.

Niagara Wine Country

Photo courtesy of Rick O’Brien

“We are a genuine wine region with vineyards and a number of great accessory functions around us, restaurants, cool tasting rooms etc.,” said Helen Young, owner, Inn on the Twenty, “you really can see a wine region in action here.”

Getting out of Toronto was one quick shot down the QEW, and an hour later we arrived at our hotel, the Inn on the Twenty in Jordan, Ont. The village was pretty and quiet, maybe a little too quiet. But after check-in, as we looked around at our room’s wood-beamed ceilings, fluffy bed, and marble tub, our city cynicism surrendered.

Thirty minutes later we were nose deep into wine glasses at the inn’s winery across the street, Cave Spring Cellars. We swirled, we swished, and we listened to Brian Kelly, the in-house wine consultant, talk passionately about the Niagara region. It only took one taste of the Cave Spring Cellars’ VQA Cabernet Franc, and it was official – Niagara makes some serious wine.

“The one thing that is holding the industry back is the price of the wine. The best Ontario wines are too costly,” said Tony Aspler. “The cheapest wines are non-VQA, so people go for those and think that’s what Ontario wines are.”

vintage cave springs wine

Before the trip I hadn’t realized how important the VQA standard is to the industry – it is what defines the wine as locally grown. And although 40 per cent of wines at the LCBO are Ontario wines, of that 40 per cent are a good 75 per cent that are not VQA. “Cellared in Canada,” could actually mean 70 per cent Chilean grapes.  The VQA wines we drank at Cave Springs were nothing like an Ontario wine I’d had before.

The revelations continued the next day with an afternoon of wine-tasting with Crush on Niagara Tours. Our tour-guide Paul, arrived at the inn’s front door with a big van to tour us around wine country. In four delightful hours we had hit four vineyards and had drank four bottles worth of some of the best wine I’ve ever had.

Hidden Bench

Photo courtesy of Rick O’Brien

What I saw at the Niagara wineries was the same thing I saw in the Tuscan wine region – a commitment to the crop.  Vintners see themselves as farmers, but more than that they are artists; they create, they experiment and they live in their fields every day. This is true of all wine-makers, from Italy to Ontario. To grape-growers, it’s not just wine, it is a way of life.

“Our hope in building our business was to present context for wine awareness and enjoyment. You do that best in wine country where the whole process from vineyard to cellar is integral to your awareness,” said Helen Young. “Wine country lifestyle is all about that awareness of place.”

Inn on the Twenty restaurant

Photo courtesy of Rick O’Brien

Coming back to the city, I wondered, what if one day people talk about Toronto and Niagara like they do San Francisco and Napa? Is it possible that people might come to our city for the great local food and wine? Yes it’s possible. But the difference is, is that Californians have always been and still are behind their wine industry, while we in Ontario aren’t so much.

So how about this: next time you’re at the LCBO, treat yourself to a Niagara VQA wine, she’s a prom queen in disguise.

Pairing Ontario Wine to Toronto’s Melting Pot

waiter pouring wine

You don’t need to hug trees to see how “eating local” boosts Toronto’s green trend and economy. But does “drinking local” hold greater implications for the city? Possibly, and it starts in the restaurants.

Few of the city’s wine lists feature Ontario varietals. Instead, foreign wine is often found in the glasses next to fine local dishes. The freshest ingredients from Ontario’s family of beautiful produce are served at Toronto’s most distinguished restaurants, with wine that has been shipped across a sea.

Most who dine out regularly, will be more hard pressed than a pinot grape to find more than two or three Ontario wines on a restaurant’s menu. Basically our city makes local wine sit at the kiddy table.

It is strange because nothing would compliment local food better than local wine. Both born from the same soil, Ontario wine and produce  are naturally compatible and should be served together. Your meal will just taste better.

Inn on the Twenty cuisine

Photo courtesy of Rick O’Brien

Perhaps restaurateurs are simply responding to the fact that most Torontonians see local wines as no more than a grocery store bargain. And the economy certainly isn’t helping the case.

The best Ontario wines are too expensive for the average drinker; typically priced at $30 or $40. LCBO pricing, tax regulations, and the high cost of grape crops for Ontario vintners all bump the numbers up.

Hidden Bench wines

Photo courtesy of Rick O’Brien

The result is that most Torontonians don’t have a clue how good provincial wines are. But local sommeliers and restaurateurs do. There needs to be more responsibility in the city’s restaurants to support Ontario wines and to inform the consumer just how worthy the varietals are.

Those in the know are aware that Ontario wines are beating top French and Italian varietals in international taste tests. Last May, at the Judgment of Montreal, a local wine – Le Clos Jordanne’s 2006 Claystone Terrace Chardonnay trumped the top French varietals in a blind taste-test.

Thirty-three years ago California wine was legitimized by a similar event – the 1976 Judgment of Paris.  Like the Le Clos Jordanne wine, California wines were snuck into the blind taste test and were rated best by the seasoned judges.  The only difference in this situation was that California always supported its local wines, while Toronto restaurants seem to mate outside the breed. When choosing wine lists, why is water thicker than blood?

And here we have the biggest conundrum of all: where is our local pride Toronto? We support The Blue Jays no matter how many times they lose, and local breweries are always on tap, so where is the love for local wines?

Perhaps the most interesting thing is that this is not the case for all of Canada. In B.C. there is huge consumer support – many restaurants out West feature only local wine.

Bottom line, it is time to think about not only what we can do for local wine, but what local wine can do for the city. Supporting local grapes could pack a powerful punch for the city’s economy and tourism; more than a big glass of pinot at lunchtime.

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Photo courtesy of Rick O’Brien

The city may be a rainbow of cultures, but it could use something fresh to support together, especially during the recession, to get a pot of gold. By purchasing an Ontario wine you are returning $4.60 back to the economy, but with a foreign wine, the return is only about 80 cents.

Look around, nearby wineries are the economic heartbeat of many cities, like San Francisco and Napa, Toronto and Niagara have an opportunity for shared growth.

The idea is that when Toronto restaurants support the local wine industry the rest of the city will follow. The Ontario economy will also improve and best of all, Torontonians will enjoy a more common ground. Now that’s something we can all toast to.

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